Here is the video... enjoy

s/v Amaris sails the world

3 miles south of Isla D'Elba (Elba)

speed 6 knots under motor alone

Destination - town of Portoferraio, Elba

Today was a fascinating sail through a squal/lightning storm.  We wanted to get an early start today so that Shawn and I could each take conference calls from a "real town" with wifi calling.  Or at least that is the current plan.  We had wonderful winds for the first few hours and were making great time sailing along at 10 knots.  We passed a number of boats, which as a sailor is always nice.  I suppose i should have sensed something when the wind disappeared and the humidity started to thicken.  Alas, I didn't.

After lunch (Cassoulet with duck confit of course), the wind picked up a little and we were once again sailing.  Oddly, it shifted frequently between 60-120 degrees.  I am realizing this should have been a tell tale indicator???  Suddenly with a full main and jib, the wind was blowing 20-not a bad thing.  We were scooting.  Within 30 seconds, it was blowing a steady 25.  Now we were really scooting making 15 knots in the wind.  Cody (not in the shower or bed) was assigned the main sheet to let it fly should we become radically overpowered.  

In a normal situation i would have enjoyed such a spirited sail.  We didn't have time to reef (although i should have seen the signs) and we certainly were not prepared for the driving rain or the lightning that was immediately above us (which further prevented me from wanting either Shawn or Cody near our metal mast to reef the main.  10 minutes later it was all gone - winds back to near nothing we secured the jib (easily wound up with a few lines).  We also put away the main once the threat of lightning was gone.

I believe now what i read about weather coming up very quickly here on the Med.  Honestly, the time between 10 knots of wind and 25 was so fast we didn't even have the chance to think about lighting our sails.  The benefit of a boat with in mast furling would have been immediately recognized (you can reef in 2-3 minutes).  That said, Shawn and I will be practicing our reefing the next time we raise the main.  Secretly, I think the boat loved the wind.  The owners manual recommends the first reef at 20 knots - i figure they always write those conservatively...  Right?

Amaris sails the world

Anchored - Isla Del Giglio, Seno di Campese

After an exhilarating sail and boring motor, we anchored at dawn at Campese on Isla Del Giglio.  There is great history to this and most of the islands around Italy.  Giglio (not Gigilo as Cody would prefer it to be called) has a castle at the top that served the residents of Giglio as refuge from invading pirates.  Apparently, when the island was invaded, the locals would all run up the hills to seek protection in the fortified walls of the castle.  The castle, originally built some 1500 years ago, of course continues to be inhibited.  Shawn and I of course had to see.  Cody feigned some interest, but it disappeared once he saw a beach full of bikinis...  Well the bottoms at least of bikinis.  He stayed on the beach, we walked on.

Hitting the 2km marker on the trail brought some relief to us.  We were making headway in the 100 degree weather walking the steep incline to the castle.  Turning the corner and seeing the sign "Castello 4km" brought horror.  We tried flagging a bus, but were denied (turns out if they stop, they cannot get going again).  So continued to make our way up the road - which eventually became a trail through both active and abandoned vineyards.  Eventually we made it to the castle (which we told Cody was well worth the hike).  Turns out that it really was just about 300 tiny condos that are 1500 years old (not sure how the sewage system worked).  We were able to find a vendor that sold us ice cold water and wandered through the castle.  After we caught our breath the wind picked up and cooled the interior walkways of the castle.  Shawn considered buying a sweatshirt, which made me think he was suffering mild heat stroke.  Need i say, we took the bus back to the boat.

Attached is a short video we made while sailing to Isla Del Giglio.  It is hard to make out the audio over the wind - Basically I am describing the boats performance (sailing between 9-10 knots in 13 knots of breeze).  Shawn is casually watching for other boats - Cody of course was resting his eyes.  I have to give him some credit however, he is spending a few hours the last few days reading a book.  We continue to be happy with the speed and the comfort of the boat.  I will admit, i miss the excitement at times of the heal of a monohull, but the balance of performance and lack of fatigue from needing to balance all the time is great.

Enjoy the video and the photos.

 

-Note from shawn... video and photos soon

s/v Amaris

Porto Palma

Anchored 10 knots of breeze - 90 degrees

Sailing the globe

clearing customs into Italy

 

With freshly e-mailed documentation papers for our boat we were finally allowed to enter other countries.  Hooray, France is now in our rear view mirror as to say.

 

Cody is particularly fond of showering, as is most any 16 year old i assume.  So, once again we left our anchorage nearly out of water, with our generator and water maker on.  Sadly, we also had perfect winds for the 6 mile run across the boarder into Italy where we were to clear customs into Italy.  Nonetheless, we had a wonderful morning "motor" sail.  As we pulled into the city of Maddalena on the island of I'La Maddalena we woke Cody to help with lines as we had no clue where we were tying up, where the customs dock was, or for that matter how to speak Italian to the harbormaster.  Cody begrudgingly got out of bed to help out.  Pulling into the harbor, Shawn and I had all the lines and fenders ready, and were still waiting for the boy to jump out to help.  Was he still in bed?  No-in the shower!  As another nephew says..  "OH - Barnacles"

 

As is our usual practice, I left to search out the customs office with the required documentation and passports of all aboard.  Is is NOT the practice, I was unable to find the customs office.  I entered the police office, which was at the head of the pier thinking that the Customs officer would be there as well (Maddalena is not a major port of entry).  Sadly, I was mistaken.  The chief of police however was happy to leave his desk and take me outside to point out the customs office, which of course was on the opposite side of the harbor and a block into town.  So i left for a hike across town, through restaurants, wine distributorships, salumi distributorships, and everything italian. 

 

Upon walking into the Mayor's office, I was welcomed by a beautiful lobby with offices in each of the 4 corners.  I chose one at random.  The woman inside kindly stood from her desk and pointed across the hall when i showed our passports and boat documentation.  With excitement i crossed the hall - knowing i had found the place.  Turns out, I had just found someone that spoke English - more or less.  The kind woman walked me out of the Mayor's office building and onto the street.  She pointed to a building a short walk away.  My adventure continued so it appears...

 

I entered what i leared to be indeed the customs office.  Once again the person i met only spoke Italian - and given rustic Spanish and English as communication tools we had a difficult time getting through the immigration process.  He called in a friend (Who wants to be a millionare style).  

 

After a few minutes of good sweating (it is really hot and humid here) we were graced with the presence of the friend aka translator...  with back up support.  This town was overwhelmingly wanting to support my process in clearing customs for myself and crew.  After a lot of translation and a bit of conversation, I learned they were only allowed to immigrate produce at this port...  I quickly replied that we had a teenager aboard and that he had the brains of a watermellon.  They all understood the translation.  Then they asked why i really wanted to clear in - what was the point?  Was i trying to collect stamps or see Italy.  After several more laughs, i realize that i saw a wonderful side of Italy during the process.

 

Shawn and I had a wonderful lunch in a local restaurant before buying wine offered in a used 2 liter water bottle (full of course), 200g of salumi, and 300g of olives for 13 Euros before leaving the port.

 

Anchored in Porto Palma, the other side of the world from Seattle, we sit anchored next to another American couple (well, from Texas) who report they have been directed to social security offices, welfare offices, health offices, and for that matter have had a good tour of many towns - always without success of clearing customs.  There is a sailing school across the harbor and children and adults are racing and practicing "rounding the mark" at untaken mooring bouys.....  1/2 way through our 2 liter "bottle" of wine.

 

Ah, Italy...

Getting started

July 13, 2013.  And without fanfair we started our journey. 

 

This boat is big-I am sure given time we will have more confidence in doing the simple tasks such as going to the fuel dock.  Today however, we celebrated not breaking anything, and litttle excitement after navigating the tight channel to the fuel dock, docking, and then departing La Grand Motte to begin our journey. 

 

Sailing in the Med is blissful.  I can say this now with one day expeirence!  We motored out of the harbor and soon afterwards raised the main to motor sail.  The winds slowly increased to 9 knots and we began slicing through the water under sails alone.  Perhaps i should say careening as we sailed from La Grand Motte to Marseille (anchored behind Ile Pomegues) at speeds in excess of 9 knots as the winds built.  This boat is an amazing balance of performance and comfort.  She isn't quite Ron Popiel (set it and forget it), but we had no issue relaxing for our 5 oclock tapas hour while making 9's.

 

Bastille Day July 14

 

Turns out I won't be celebraing my 40th birthday in the Cinque Tierre, however the Italians didn't promise a fireworks display to help celebrat the last night of my 30's - The French of course did!  Upon wisdom of our friend Nancy Felton, we spent a couple of days in Cassis.  Of course we anchored right in front of the town beach - turned out to be a front row seat to the town's fireworks display-of course just before dark 30 other boats joined us.  As the boats were identifying their perfect spot, a friendly "hello there" came from a Swan 54... flying the stars and stripes!  Of all places the boat the yacht listed it's port of call as Port Madison, WA.  Wh would have thought you could travel 1/2 way around the world to find someone from across the bay...

 

The helmsman gave his name and phone number - which was particularly useful as he owned a company that restores boats.  Not that Amaris needs a full restore, but she certainly needed a new halyard for her main.  Bernard connect us with a friend that had a rigging company and violla, a new halyard was quickly in place.  That afternoon, Bernard gave us a tour of his workshop.  He had a finished ChrisCraft runabout that had just been fully restored - with only 22 coats of varnish she really shined.  Appropriately named French Kiss.  He had several other yachts in various states of repair (based mostly on the financial states of their owners) including an old Herschoff design sloop. Bernard also introduced us to a Frenchman who was building his 7th boat in the corner of his space.  Shawn quickly identified the craftsmanship and was reminded of my fathers attention to detail and woodwork. 

 

Bernard's workspace had once been a workplace of 3000 welders building large cargo and tanker ships.  An incredible workspace that dwarfed the classic yachts that were being re-fit inside.  The ceilings must have been 6 stories high.  Bernards kindness was overwhelming and hopefully we can one day pay forward his hospitality! 

 

After the tour of Bernard's plant, we went out for "glace" or ice cream.  Hot French days (in the 90's with 70-80 percent humidity) are more tollerable with ice cream.  In particular - Coconut gelatto.