Amaris Sails the World

St Kitts - Nevis

3/22/16

Joining the regatta!

Having enjoyed a couple of days at St Kitts (St Christopher) enjoying beaches and inadvertently crashing a party for superyachts, we needed to continue our journey to Antigua (as we have a schedule to keep right?)  It was blowing a honker, so we decided the sail to Nevis would suffice for the day.  Anchor up to Anchor down, I estimated the trip to be all of 10 miles.  As crazy as it  sounds, we had a debate of sailing vs motoring.  With the wind off the beam however, we decided in the end it was worth the effort to raise the main and sail - even if the winds would be flukey as we sailed in the lee of the islands.

The sail was delightful - of course.  The seas were small as we were protected from the Swell the majority of the trip.  Great tradewinds of 20 knots just forward of  the beam.  Perfect sailing conditions, which may have lead to the regatta of superyachts which decided to sail with us as well.  Five 100 to 150 foot boats raised their sails right behind us and chased us all the way to Nevis!  We were quickly joined by a helicopter and a small fleet of small RIB’s taking photos of the fleet (and the obstacle that we had become) proving that the event wasn’t entirely spontaneous.  

In the end, we had a joyous sail and stood our ground (sort of).  We were passed by all but one of the superyachts, but did regain some of the ground from the slowest of those that passed us.  It normally makes me a bit sad not to come in first, but on this day, getting a close up of these yachts under sail made the defeat tolerable.  We drowned any sorrows we may have had with “killer bee’s” from Sunshine’s bar.  :)

I ate the Barracuda - Carriacou

Amaris Sails the World

Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou

May 25, 2014

I ate the Barracuda - Carriacou

I have been doing a lot of snorkeling and a little diving - especially around the reefs where all the pretty fish live.  Well all the pretty fish and the barracuda that eats the pretty fish.  In fact, i believe the barracuda to be anything but pretty with horrid teeth that make the creature look quite ferocious.  Most fish see you snorkeling and keep their safe distance, as if they know you to be neither friend or foe.  The Barracuda however seem a little "too friendly."  In a recent snorkel at the Tabago Cays, a barracuda slowly inched its way towards me-almost as if it wanted to hide from the sun in my shadow.  I found this to be a little queer-especially as i began to back away, and it increased its desire to be closer.  Eventually i ended up swimming back (quickly) to the dinghy and cutting short my snorkel (complaining not of the "scary fish" to Shawn, but of the flipper that has worn through the skin on middle toe.  Heaven forgive me if i encourage any reason to be fearful of fish.)  I have known other cruisers to have similar experiences.

After a lumpy sail to Tyrrel Bay (the winds were around 20 knots and the swell exaggerated in the shallow waters around Carriacou Island) we anchored in the delightful anchorage which had a few shops along the shore - and the needed customs office so we could clear into Grenada.  While doing our usual walk through town, we found a pizza joint - and an opportunity to have dinner for 2-for $15 US.  

After finishing our walk and enjoying a glass of wine and bag of potato chips with our friend Steve aboard Pannikin, we returned for pizza.  Of course they had a special appetizer with shrimp....  and a flat bread with olives.  So we started with these (I only had one small piece of Shawn's flat bread.  He stayed away from my shrimp as he would anything that comes from the sea).  Then came the night's special -Barracuda.  I have always heard barracuda to be full of bones making it difficult to eat - and dangerous to eat as it can harbor a toxin carried by reef fish (in the northern Caribbean islands).  Shawn was no longer excited by the option of sharing a pizza (he had just finished the flat bread) so I ate the barracuda - which was lovely.  I found it to have the taste and texture of halibut.

Dinner was $100 US - so much for the cheap pizza.  That said, i won't be so quick to throw back the next barracuda i catch - if i can get past its teeth to get it off the hook!

Strange dreams in the Tabago Cays

Amaris Sails the World

Tabago Cays, The Grenadines (St Vincent)

May, 24, 2014

Strange dreams in the Tabago Cays

When doing our research and reading about the Caribbean, Shawn and I were most looking forward to sailing around the Grenadines specifically the Tabago Cays.  The Cays consist of several reefs that provide protection from the Atlantic Swell - but leave you exposed to the trade winds.  It is sort of like "ha ha Atlantic-you think you can get us, but we are safe behind this reef - and we have a good stiff breeze to keep the wind generator spinning like mad."  

Our timing wasn't exactly perfect in getting to the Cays.  I think i would suggest that people visit in more "settled conditions."  We were certainly safely anchored with great holding, but with 25 knots blowing across the water a bit of chop builds making it difficult to snorkel around the reef and contributing to strange dreams at night.  I had a horrid nightmare that i anchored in a "no anchor zone" and was hauled out of the water and towed to the city impound lot on a semi-trailer.  Of course by day 4 the weather has started to settle a bit which has made much better conditions for friends just arriving Debbie and Jim from s/v The Black Pearl and Stan and Lann of s/v Barefoot Life barrysonbarefootlife.wordpress.com  (coincidentally from Spokane).  Fingers crossed they are not subject to bad dreams now that things have settled.

The Tabago Cays have totally lived up to expectations.  I have a habit of snorkeling the anchor to make sure it has set correctly when we arrive in a new harbor.  While following the chain up to the anchor, I saw my first "big" ray which was about 4 feet across.  Swimming with it was a yellow jack-which may have made a great dinner had i a spear gun.  After setting in, I went snorkeling with Steve from s/v Pannikin on the lee side of the reef where we saw 20-30 different species of fish.  After several recon trips, I was able to convince Shawn to even get in the water (and with further pressure, put on a mask) so that the two of us could snorkel with the local turtles.  At one point I cold see 7 different turtles swimming back and forth between the grass and the surface 2-3 meters below.

 

 

 

Shawn and I discussed the difficult life a turtle must have over dinner (rack of lamb, white bean mash, and brazed carrots- we do rough it).  They don't exactly have efficient bodies for swimming.  Four flippers and a tiny tail don't make up for the big shell they have to carry around.  They have to crane their heads way out of the water to breath -especially when the waters are choppy.  When they sleep, they dive to the bottom and hold their breath for up to 5 hours.  I can only imagine what holding my breath while under water would do to further influence my dreams.  Further, when they do dive down to eat, they must open their mouths to bite off the sea grass.  How do they open their mouth while holding their breaths?  I may have to look on youtube for a nova special on turtles.

Coincidentally, we also learned that throwing popcorn for the birds near the wind turbine is a bad idea.  Very fortunately for both us and the birds...  we learned this when the first bird got close - but not too close.  That would have made for a horrible mess (and likely contributed to further nightmares).

A Tale of two cities - St Vincent

Amaris Sails the World

St Vincent, Windward Islands

May 18, 2014

A Tale of two cities - St Vincent

It is no secret that I don't like to start the day early.  We are used to not having the "best" anchorage in a harbor if that goes to the early bird.  That said we usually leave early enough to get into a harbor before dark.  That wasn't the case with St Vincent.  If there is one thing i dislike, it is anchoring in the dark.  St Vincent was one such example.

As we neared St Vincent, I opted to change our landfall destination as it was pitch black (heavy clouds in the lee of the island obscure the stars and moon).  Although we had a nice sail from St Lucia, once we got behind St Vincent, the winds reduced and sailing became impracticable.  We made landfall at Chateaubelair.  Luck was with us as a boat boy came out to meet us on a kayak with a recommendation on where to anchor.  We decided we liked his spot, which cost us 10 East Caribbean Dollars for his advice.

Chateaubelair is a point of entry to St Lucia, and a pretty harbor.  After a good night's sleep we went into town to clear in.  Every person on shore was eager for us to beach in front of their shop or home, more eager to help pull our dinghy up on the beach, and most eager to put their hand out for a bit of change.  I walked around town while Shawn cleared us into customs.  

St Vincent was hit hard by the "Christmas Storm" that had also washed out many of the roads on St Lucia.  The stream bed in the center of town was littered with the remains of two homes that had been taken by the storm.  Fortunately, no one was killed here (although 5 people died in St Lucia).  Locals were very eager to escort me to local bars (although at 10 am - i was't quite ready), give a tour of the local area, or sell local produce.  Honestly, by the time Shawn had finished checking us into the country-we were very ready to leave this poor village.  By the time we were making it clear that we were leaving, the locals began asking for clothing, old lines, and even a AA battery charger.  

We sailed from Chateaubelair to Willilabou (where they filmed Pirates of the Caribbean).  The one restaurant in the bay offers a free mooring if you dine in the restaurant.  This of course seemed like a win to us.  After we had secured to the mooring, we decided to walk into "town."

The walk into town was up a hill and down into the next bay.  The major point of that sentence is it was up a hill in 90 degree weather.  It was HOT.  It didn't take long to realize that the only thing these people had was their million dollar views.  Each "home" had a view out over the bay.  Most of the homes were built of cinder blocks and corrugated sheet metal.   People along the way kept offering assistance, and we kept replying that we were just on a walk.  Soon, we had two followers.  Two cousins who had the day off school one in the equivalent of 6th grade and one in 5th.

The kids were super friendly and gave us a tour of the town (Keartons).  Very happy for us, the tour began with a grocery where we bought juice boxes for the kids - and gatorade for the two of us.  With renewed vigor we began our search for lunch.  The kids showed us options that included the bakery (which was no longer serving), and a restaurant (which was also no longer serving).  Fortunately, as all pre-teens are able, the tour continued to the local "chicken shack" where the four of us had fried chicken and french fries-which we took to the beach and ate overlooking the water.  The kids introduced us to their uncle - a local fisherman who regaled us with tales of fishing for tuna, dolphin, and whale.  

We began our return hike, refreshed and with invites to the town party that would take place that evening.  It was a kind gesture, but one we didn't end up accepting.  We did however become a bit "parched" after walking up and over the hill back to where the boat was secured.  Fellow cruisers had recommended a bar just up the street - and nothing sounded better than an ice cold local beer.  Although the bar was closed (appropriately named "Pirates Hide-a-way" or some such name), we were able to obtain beers from a local "tour guide" that had set up a camp along the beach with a few other local vendors.  We learned a lot from Bagga about the marijuana growing and trafficking trade that has established roots in several of the Caribbean islands.  We had heard that there was still discrimination against US sailors from a recent US government "round-up" spraying that had happened a few years back.  This has apparently been lifted in favor of tourism.

After a big day, we dined out at the establishment with our free moorage.  We should have anchored and cooked for ourselves.  Nonetheless, it was a great day and wonderful adventure.  We drifted into sleep with the sounds of live bands drifting over the hill from Keartons.

A Classic Sail - Martinique to St Lucia

Amaris Sails the world

Marigot Bay, St Lucia

May 16, 2014

A Classic Sail - Martinique to St Lucia

Getting to France was a bit convoluted.  To get to the Outremer Cup I found a cheap flight from the island of Martinique.  Martinique, being part of France had the equivalent of "domestic flights" whereas flying from St Lucia (where Shawn wanted to be for the Jazz Festival) was both "international" and triple the price.  This left the challenge only of getting from St Lucia and back - a distance of roughly 30 miles.  

Getting there was easy-Two different flight options, the latter with only a 4 hour layover before the flight to mainland France.  Getting back was another story.  There were no flights that departed the day i returned - and the ferry service only runs 2 days a week.  A no go there as well.

Fortunately I have a good friend who is cruising on a very limited income.  (Actually, we have a lot of friends that are cruising on a very limited income/budget)  Paul happened to be at St Lucia for the Jazz fest as well and was happy to make the journey northward to meet me in Martinique, then sail me back to St Lucia in exchange for what i would have paid for a flight between the islands (had one been available).  A win win for all!  And on top of it an excuse to go sailing.

Paul has a "classic English" 10 meter sloop built in the late 60's.  She was a dream to sail.  Unfortunately, the weather offered a few squalls and soaked us within minutes of heaving up the anchor (Classic sailboat = no windless).  As we were drying out and having delectable sandwiches made by yours truly (inspired by my trip to France of course), we were joined in company by a whale which surfaced twice within 20 meters of the boat.  Paul and I both had thoughts of suddenly sailing without either a keel or a rudder - neither of which a classic English sloop can sail without.  As if that wasn't enough, dolphins played in our bow wave as we neared St Lucia a few hours later.  Paul typically sails alone, and without an autopilot.  As i had the tiller, he had a rare opportunity to stand on his bow and watch the dolphins dance around and play.

After deploying the anchor in Marigot Bay, I was able to rejoin Shawn on board Amaris.  I will welcome the slower pace as we restart our cruising southward through the islands.  Next stop, St Vincent!

Sailing the dream , Outremer Cup -continued...

Amaris sails the World

La Grand Motte, France

Outremer Cup -continued...

Sailing the dream

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sailing in La Grande Motte France has been wonderful.  Although the weather has been...  cold (so i have thinned blood), I have managed to make due by wearing either a light jacket or pants (but rarely at the same time).  The last two mornings have started with light winds (on day two causing a delayed start) and these winds have built throughout the day. 

The sailing has been nothing short of spectacular.  Days 2 and 3 involved coaxing every ounce of speed from the wind during the first of two races.  The afternoons (second races) have involved keeping the boats in control while the winds have built to 25-30 knots - each boat owner waiting for the first wimp to reef their sails.  Of course no one did. I believe the competition to be friendly however i never know when people are yelling between boats in French if they are asking for mayonnaise or telling the other skipper they are in violation of sailing rules.  I can say however, that French sailing involves a decent sit down lunch on a long run between marks (two courses and a glass of wine or beer - to support the habits of the Germans on the boat).  All that said, these cats have so much better control when over powered (no tendency to round up) which makes racing a little more calm and the boats more predictable.  

To provide as much exposure as possible to the different boats, visitors were shuffled between boats. Something i was grateful for.  Day one was an older design 45, days 2 and 3 the new 49 (same model as Amaris), and day 4 the 5X (the new flagship of Outremer).  I have always wanted to sail the 5X which is the newest and largest design and has stunning speeds and acceleration.  Fortunately the winds started the day strong (20-30 knots) and we were given a true feel for how the boat performs.  Shawn will be shocked to hear this- but i prefer the size and performance of our 49 to the 5X (59 feet).  The speeds were of course higher, but the boat would literally surge forward at times accelerating so quickly I was nearly knocked off my feet.  The boat was a little "too comfortable" for my taste and seems a great option for someone with crew rather than a couple sailing around the world.  I suppose the dream boat may change.  Perhaps it is time to realize that we are living the dream.

I will be back next year for the 2015 Outremer cup.  I may ask to sail again on the 49, but i will surely ask to sail on the 40.  I think of all the boats, the 40 impressed me the most and looked to be the most spirited.  The boat kept up with the top finishers of the fleet and the cockpit is half the distance above the water of the new boats.  While we were having a glass of wine on the 5X, the 40 had spray flying across the bows and was just to our stern.  Sure the crew members were covered with a bit of salt when they finished, but i think their smiles may have been a little larger from the thrill of the sail.  There is a special word used to describe the spray and water that rushes across the leeward hull as it crashes through the seas..  I am told it that doesn't translate well to English - but roughly as "smoke."   It is a sight that cannot be described - and one i hope to see a bit closer next year when i race the cup.  

Outremer Cup Day 1

Amaris Sails the World

La Grand Motte

Outremer Cup Day 1

In order to better my skills at sailing Amaris, I decided to participate in this year's Outremer Cup - a competition of Outremer boats hosted by the factory in La Grand Motte, France.  

Today was a day of great learning.  The weather for the first race was - well, anything but windy.  True to French form however, we made a race out of it.  True to Outremer form, it was quite a race.  I sailed on a 45' Outremer roughly 15 years old.  She was a screamer and I hate to say a bit faster than many of the 49's on the field (boats of the same vintage and length of Amaris).  Sadly, we were quite often in last place (though fortunately one is only issued a placing when they cross the finish line).  I will have to say that i think you learn more when you are in last place than when you are in first place.

My first lesson - know where the marks are when you start a race.  Sure the race instructions were all in French (a language which i do not speak).  Our skipper however spoke perfect French - and English!  We had a great run along the shore humming along just behind Outremer's new flagship the 5X.  As we watched the boats tack off one by one behind us we wondered what fools they were.  Turns out they were all sailing towards the first mark.  We were not.  We spend the rest of the race catching (and passing some) of the fleet.  The 5X however had a stunning down wind leg and lurched forward in the standings.  

My second lesson - everyone needs a genoa.  Amaris comes with her stock sails of Main, solent (small headsail), and code zero (very large headsail).  The boat i raced on was performing extremely well to weather with her large genoa.  I gotta get me one of those!  There is no way we should have caught up with the other boats in the fleet after our horrible mistake making the first mark.  But we did!  And we did so quickly.  The genoa continued to perform well as the day progressed and the winds climbed to nearly 20 knots.  She honestly seemed to be the secret weapon of the boat.

My third lesson - everyone had fun.  The Outremer cup doesn't really start until tomorrow.  Today was a special race (with a French name i cannot pronounce) for boat owners and those that built the yachts.  I was only invited last minute as I didn't bring Amaris - i had nothing to offer the builders!  HA!  There is not way to adequately explain how it was explained to me without sounding like Tim the tool man Taylor after getting a lesson from Wilson.  I will however try.  There is a part of the pig which is quite favorable in France - and is saved for the butcher/butcher's family.  So the butcher and his family get the first day of racing - strictly owners of Outremers and crew from the manufacturer.  I am not sure that they have done a lot of racing (the builders) and most were quite terrified to take the helm. To my skipper's credit, he challenged them to.  I think they all had a blast in the end.  More importantly, i believe they were given an incredible gift of understanding the product that they build.  Of course, as evidenced by the photograph, the crew thoroughly enjoyed a day off from sanding, gluing, wiring, engineering, selling, or whatever they do for Outremer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am very much looking forward to the next three days of racing.  Between looking at the rigging and customization of other boats, talking with the builders of Amaris, and sailing with great fellow sailors I will be going home with a lot of new knowledge.  If i can pry Shawn's eyes off the checkbook, I may also be coming home with a new genoa.  (Don't worry Shawn - i did't put down the deposit for the 5X...  yet)