A Tale of two cities - St Vincent

Amaris Sails the World

St Vincent, Windward Islands

May 18, 2014

A Tale of two cities - St Vincent

It is no secret that I don't like to start the day early.  We are used to not having the "best" anchorage in a harbor if that goes to the early bird.  That said we usually leave early enough to get into a harbor before dark.  That wasn't the case with St Vincent.  If there is one thing i dislike, it is anchoring in the dark.  St Vincent was one such example.

As we neared St Vincent, I opted to change our landfall destination as it was pitch black (heavy clouds in the lee of the island obscure the stars and moon).  Although we had a nice sail from St Lucia, once we got behind St Vincent, the winds reduced and sailing became impracticable.  We made landfall at Chateaubelair.  Luck was with us as a boat boy came out to meet us on a kayak with a recommendation on where to anchor.  We decided we liked his spot, which cost us 10 East Caribbean Dollars for his advice.

Chateaubelair is a point of entry to St Lucia, and a pretty harbor.  After a good night's sleep we went into town to clear in.  Every person on shore was eager for us to beach in front of their shop or home, more eager to help pull our dinghy up on the beach, and most eager to put their hand out for a bit of change.  I walked around town while Shawn cleared us into customs.  

St Vincent was hit hard by the "Christmas Storm" that had also washed out many of the roads on St Lucia.  The stream bed in the center of town was littered with the remains of two homes that had been taken by the storm.  Fortunately, no one was killed here (although 5 people died in St Lucia).  Locals were very eager to escort me to local bars (although at 10 am - i was't quite ready), give a tour of the local area, or sell local produce.  Honestly, by the time Shawn had finished checking us into the country-we were very ready to leave this poor village.  By the time we were making it clear that we were leaving, the locals began asking for clothing, old lines, and even a AA battery charger.  

We sailed from Chateaubelair to Willilabou (where they filmed Pirates of the Caribbean).  The one restaurant in the bay offers a free mooring if you dine in the restaurant.  This of course seemed like a win to us.  After we had secured to the mooring, we decided to walk into "town."

The walk into town was up a hill and down into the next bay.  The major point of that sentence is it was up a hill in 90 degree weather.  It was HOT.  It didn't take long to realize that the only thing these people had was their million dollar views.  Each "home" had a view out over the bay.  Most of the homes were built of cinder blocks and corrugated sheet metal.   People along the way kept offering assistance, and we kept replying that we were just on a walk.  Soon, we had two followers.  Two cousins who had the day off school one in the equivalent of 6th grade and one in 5th.

The kids were super friendly and gave us a tour of the town (Keartons).  Very happy for us, the tour began with a grocery where we bought juice boxes for the kids - and gatorade for the two of us.  With renewed vigor we began our search for lunch.  The kids showed us options that included the bakery (which was no longer serving), and a restaurant (which was also no longer serving).  Fortunately, as all pre-teens are able, the tour continued to the local "chicken shack" where the four of us had fried chicken and french fries-which we took to the beach and ate overlooking the water.  The kids introduced us to their uncle - a local fisherman who regaled us with tales of fishing for tuna, dolphin, and whale.  

We began our return hike, refreshed and with invites to the town party that would take place that evening.  It was a kind gesture, but one we didn't end up accepting.  We did however become a bit "parched" after walking up and over the hill back to where the boat was secured.  Fellow cruisers had recommended a bar just up the street - and nothing sounded better than an ice cold local beer.  Although the bar was closed (appropriately named "Pirates Hide-a-way" or some such name), we were able to obtain beers from a local "tour guide" that had set up a camp along the beach with a few other local vendors.  We learned a lot from Bagga about the marijuana growing and trafficking trade that has established roots in several of the Caribbean islands.  We had heard that there was still discrimination against US sailors from a recent US government "round-up" spraying that had happened a few years back.  This has apparently been lifted in favor of tourism.

After a big day, we dined out at the establishment with our free moorage.  We should have anchored and cooked for ourselves.  Nonetheless, it was a great day and wonderful adventure.  We drifted into sleep with the sounds of live bands drifting over the hill from Keartons.

A Classic Sail - Martinique to St Lucia

Amaris Sails the world

Marigot Bay, St Lucia

May 16, 2014

A Classic Sail - Martinique to St Lucia

Getting to France was a bit convoluted.  To get to the Outremer Cup I found a cheap flight from the island of Martinique.  Martinique, being part of France had the equivalent of "domestic flights" whereas flying from St Lucia (where Shawn wanted to be for the Jazz Festival) was both "international" and triple the price.  This left the challenge only of getting from St Lucia and back - a distance of roughly 30 miles.  

Getting there was easy-Two different flight options, the latter with only a 4 hour layover before the flight to mainland France.  Getting back was another story.  There were no flights that departed the day i returned - and the ferry service only runs 2 days a week.  A no go there as well.

Fortunately I have a good friend who is cruising on a very limited income.  (Actually, we have a lot of friends that are cruising on a very limited income/budget)  Paul happened to be at St Lucia for the Jazz fest as well and was happy to make the journey northward to meet me in Martinique, then sail me back to St Lucia in exchange for what i would have paid for a flight between the islands (had one been available).  A win win for all!  And on top of it an excuse to go sailing.

Paul has a "classic English" 10 meter sloop built in the late 60's.  She was a dream to sail.  Unfortunately, the weather offered a few squalls and soaked us within minutes of heaving up the anchor (Classic sailboat = no windless).  As we were drying out and having delectable sandwiches made by yours truly (inspired by my trip to France of course), we were joined in company by a whale which surfaced twice within 20 meters of the boat.  Paul and I both had thoughts of suddenly sailing without either a keel or a rudder - neither of which a classic English sloop can sail without.  As if that wasn't enough, dolphins played in our bow wave as we neared St Lucia a few hours later.  Paul typically sails alone, and without an autopilot.  As i had the tiller, he had a rare opportunity to stand on his bow and watch the dolphins dance around and play.

After deploying the anchor in Marigot Bay, I was able to rejoin Shawn on board Amaris.  I will welcome the slower pace as we restart our cruising southward through the islands.  Next stop, St Vincent!

Sailing the dream , Outremer Cup -continued...

Amaris sails the World

La Grand Motte, France

Outremer Cup -continued...

Sailing the dream

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sailing in La Grande Motte France has been wonderful.  Although the weather has been...  cold (so i have thinned blood), I have managed to make due by wearing either a light jacket or pants (but rarely at the same time).  The last two mornings have started with light winds (on day two causing a delayed start) and these winds have built throughout the day. 

The sailing has been nothing short of spectacular.  Days 2 and 3 involved coaxing every ounce of speed from the wind during the first of two races.  The afternoons (second races) have involved keeping the boats in control while the winds have built to 25-30 knots - each boat owner waiting for the first wimp to reef their sails.  Of course no one did. I believe the competition to be friendly however i never know when people are yelling between boats in French if they are asking for mayonnaise or telling the other skipper they are in violation of sailing rules.  I can say however, that French sailing involves a decent sit down lunch on a long run between marks (two courses and a glass of wine or beer - to support the habits of the Germans on the boat).  All that said, these cats have so much better control when over powered (no tendency to round up) which makes racing a little more calm and the boats more predictable.  

To provide as much exposure as possible to the different boats, visitors were shuffled between boats. Something i was grateful for.  Day one was an older design 45, days 2 and 3 the new 49 (same model as Amaris), and day 4 the 5X (the new flagship of Outremer).  I have always wanted to sail the 5X which is the newest and largest design and has stunning speeds and acceleration.  Fortunately the winds started the day strong (20-30 knots) and we were given a true feel for how the boat performs.  Shawn will be shocked to hear this- but i prefer the size and performance of our 49 to the 5X (59 feet).  The speeds were of course higher, but the boat would literally surge forward at times accelerating so quickly I was nearly knocked off my feet.  The boat was a little "too comfortable" for my taste and seems a great option for someone with crew rather than a couple sailing around the world.  I suppose the dream boat may change.  Perhaps it is time to realize that we are living the dream.

I will be back next year for the 2015 Outremer cup.  I may ask to sail again on the 49, but i will surely ask to sail on the 40.  I think of all the boats, the 40 impressed me the most and looked to be the most spirited.  The boat kept up with the top finishers of the fleet and the cockpit is half the distance above the water of the new boats.  While we were having a glass of wine on the 5X, the 40 had spray flying across the bows and was just to our stern.  Sure the crew members were covered with a bit of salt when they finished, but i think their smiles may have been a little larger from the thrill of the sail.  There is a special word used to describe the spray and water that rushes across the leeward hull as it crashes through the seas..  I am told it that doesn't translate well to English - but roughly as "smoke."   It is a sight that cannot be described - and one i hope to see a bit closer next year when i race the cup.  

Outremer Cup Day 1

Amaris Sails the World

La Grand Motte

Outremer Cup Day 1

In order to better my skills at sailing Amaris, I decided to participate in this year's Outremer Cup - a competition of Outremer boats hosted by the factory in La Grand Motte, France.  

Today was a day of great learning.  The weather for the first race was - well, anything but windy.  True to French form however, we made a race out of it.  True to Outremer form, it was quite a race.  I sailed on a 45' Outremer roughly 15 years old.  She was a screamer and I hate to say a bit faster than many of the 49's on the field (boats of the same vintage and length of Amaris).  Sadly, we were quite often in last place (though fortunately one is only issued a placing when they cross the finish line).  I will have to say that i think you learn more when you are in last place than when you are in first place.

My first lesson - know where the marks are when you start a race.  Sure the race instructions were all in French (a language which i do not speak).  Our skipper however spoke perfect French - and English!  We had a great run along the shore humming along just behind Outremer's new flagship the 5X.  As we watched the boats tack off one by one behind us we wondered what fools they were.  Turns out they were all sailing towards the first mark.  We were not.  We spend the rest of the race catching (and passing some) of the fleet.  The 5X however had a stunning down wind leg and lurched forward in the standings.  

My second lesson - everyone needs a genoa.  Amaris comes with her stock sails of Main, solent (small headsail), and code zero (very large headsail).  The boat i raced on was performing extremely well to weather with her large genoa.  I gotta get me one of those!  There is no way we should have caught up with the other boats in the fleet after our horrible mistake making the first mark.  But we did!  And we did so quickly.  The genoa continued to perform well as the day progressed and the winds climbed to nearly 20 knots.  She honestly seemed to be the secret weapon of the boat.

My third lesson - everyone had fun.  The Outremer cup doesn't really start until tomorrow.  Today was a special race (with a French name i cannot pronounce) for boat owners and those that built the yachts.  I was only invited last minute as I didn't bring Amaris - i had nothing to offer the builders!  HA!  There is not way to adequately explain how it was explained to me without sounding like Tim the tool man Taylor after getting a lesson from Wilson.  I will however try.  There is a part of the pig which is quite favorable in France - and is saved for the butcher/butcher's family.  So the butcher and his family get the first day of racing - strictly owners of Outremers and crew from the manufacturer.  I am not sure that they have done a lot of racing (the builders) and most were quite terrified to take the helm. To my skipper's credit, he challenged them to.  I think they all had a blast in the end.  More importantly, i believe they were given an incredible gift of understanding the product that they build.  Of course, as evidenced by the photograph, the crew thoroughly enjoyed a day off from sanding, gluing, wiring, engineering, selling, or whatever they do for Outremer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am very much looking forward to the next three days of racing.  Between looking at the rigging and customization of other boats, talking with the builders of Amaris, and sailing with great fellow sailors I will be going home with a lot of new knowledge.  If i can pry Shawn's eyes off the checkbook, I may also be coming home with a new genoa.  (Don't worry Shawn - i did't put down the deposit for the 5X...  yet)

Fish, mangos, and dasheen yes. KFC no

Amaris Sails the World

Portsmith, Dominica

May 2, 2014

Fish, mangos, and dasheen yes.  KFC no.

Dominica is among my favorite of the Caribbean Islands.  Although we did little of it, there are tons of hiking trails to explore-many leading to waterfalls, hot springs, vistas, etc.  The island has the highest mountain in the Caribbean chain as well-which leads to tropical rain forests.  Parts of the island see over 300 inches of rain (slightly more than Seattle) leaving the island lush and the inhabitants with a surplus of water.  Dominica has installed one of three planned geothermal power plants and will soon be selling power to neighboring islands Guadeloupe and Martinique.  As if that isn't enough, Dominica is the home to more centurions per capita than any other country. Recently, the worlds oldest person (who lived on Dominica) passed at 127 years old.  Sadly she left two friends that were 116 shy of a Dominos player.  The island was also covered in volcanic ash 100 years ago with the eruption of the volcano at the north end of Martinique.  The ash leads to very fertile soil and growing conditions-and limitless water for irrigation.

Shawn and I spent three days in the main harbor at the north of the island.  The people are incredibly friendly - which i know i keep saying about the people in the Caribbean.  In general they all are.  Many of the islands in the southern half of the Caribbean have "boat boys."  These men greet incoming yachtsmen as they sail in and help tie to a mooring, arrange or sell produce, set up tours of the island, assist with finding repairs or parts, etc.  For the most part, these "salesmen" walk a fine line between helpful and annoying.  Sadly, they don't have a ton to sell - and they are all selling the same tours.  Dominica has taken a different approach with the boat boys forming a type of "co-op" whereby they ask visiting yachtsmen to chose one individual to be their guide to the island.  This individual arranges for all the items someone may need and in general can be quite helpful to a visitor.  You are not continuously barraged with "would you like some grapefruit?  Would you like a tour?  Would you like some "Bob Marley" (marijuana)?  In addition, the co-op has laid a myriad of moorings that visitors can tie into instead of anchoring.  The funds from these moorings as well as a weekly cook off (Fridays) go to support the co-op.  A warning however, I dove on the boat to clean the bottom while anchored here-the mooring behind us was tied to two anchors (a large fisherman's and a Danforth) and not the typical 2-ton concrete block.  A good reminder to dive on your ground tackle even if it is a mooring. 

While visiting, we took the island tour by van with friends Tom and Sabina aboard their boat Honey Ryder (yes-named after the James Bond super model).  The all day tour drove through a valley between mountain ranges where we hiked into two spectacular water falls.  Sabrina of course encouraged us to swim by claiming the pools under the falls had magical properties that may help us look young forever.  Whereas it was wonderful to swim under the falls in fresh water-the water was quite frigid.  I suppose we are soft after swimming in the 85 degree water of the Caribbean Sea.  We also made stops at several vistas including the islands Red Rock Cliffs at the north end.  I believe Dominica to be one of the Caribbean's more beautiful islands.

Shawn and I agreed that if we ever become plantation owners - Dominica is the place to do it.

 

Hand Steering

Amaris Sails the World

Portsmith, Dominica, Caribbean Islands

April 29, 2014

Hand Steering

Of the last 15,000 miles of sailing, We have hand steered for about 500 miles.  A bit embarrassing i suppose to admit, but our good friend Otto VonPilot has done the majority of the helm work for us.  Otto decided to take a bit of a vacation-or broke down!  It will be an easy repair once we get parts (a fitting in one of the drive arms has worn and the now enlarged opening causes a clunk sound each time the helm is turned by the autopilot).  In the interim however, we are hand steering.

I was able to rig a fix for the auto pilot (so don't stress mother-the autopilot is actually working normally if we need it) but until we get replacement parts - it is good practice for us to get a better knowledge of hand steering.  Shawn and I take 30 minute "watches" and trade turns as we sail between the islands - and yesterday was a dream sail, sailing from The Saints to the north end of Dominica (20 miles). Not surprisingly, I look a forward to my turn at the helm and focus on our sailing as opposed to a book.  The timing is indeed perfect as I am honing my skills prior to an upcoming race in France (Outremer Cup which May 8-11) and great practice for Shawn who has less helm time.  In addition, the sailing is now getting more enjoyable with the wind at between 50-60 degrees apparent.  The further we go down the island chain, the more this wind angle opens up and we will get faster more forgiving sailing runs between islands-assuming normal trade winds continue.

We are both very happy to be in Dominica.  Portsmith harbor is very well protected, has a wonderful cross breeze to keep the heat down, and great holding for our anchor.  Translation - Windy (the wind turbine) in conjunction with Sonny (the solar panels) can make all the power we need and our good friend Dick Cheney (the anchor and chain) is keeping us in one place!  Dominica has a wonderful slow Caribbean feel with great swimming, local produce, yet few amenities (no loud music all night long).  Shawn and I went out to dinner last night to the only open restaurant - again, Chinese.  The medical school has closed for the semester and with it most of the restaurants.  This morning we enjoyed our usual yogurt and coffee hour with the local Caribbean news on the radio-a fun way to listen to all the problems in the world.

Today we are off to the market to load up on local produce and prepare for our random day of thanksgiving.  Turkey dinner tonight while we enjoy all we have to be thankful for - after a good swim which will include a half hour of scrubbing the growth from the bottom of the boat.

The road less traveled by...

 

• Steven Jungk
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Amaris sails the world

Monteserrat, Caribbean Islands

April 25, 2014

The road less traveled by...

Traveling up and down the Caribbean Island chain typically involves stops Northward at Dominica, Guadeloupe, Antigua, St Martin.  These islands have great anchorages, plenty of restaurants, fuel, services, and provisioning options.  Heading Southbound, the same islands are used in reverse - although people may chose to anchor in a different bay thus still exploring what appears to be a new place again.  

There is however an alternative - less attractive option of (again Northbound) Dominica (lovely), Guadeloupe (again-lovely and easy provisioning), Montserrat (difficult rolling anchorage with active volcano/exclusion zone), Redonda (interesting history - no safe anchorage), Nevis/St Kitts (actually lovely with a few protected places on St Kitts but noted for high crime), Statia (again with the rolling anchorage), and Saba (rolling anchorage).  After completing that run, a cruising yacht may seek the protection and calm of St Martin - where they may want to never leave.

For our southbound trek, we chose the less attractive route.  I can claim this had much to do with how the winds were blowing - but Shawn and I certainly like finding the "road less traveled."  Montserrat is certainly on the road less traveled by - and is usually bypassed by most cruisers even if they are doing the St Kitts.  In the mid 90's, Soufriere Hills (a funny name for a volcano) erupted burying the southern half of the island including Plymouth, the capitol - and the one attractive/protected anchorage.  Ironically, Jimmy Buffet, who wrote the song while staying on Montserrat "I don't know where i am gonna go when the volcano blows" (not real title obviously) had left before the eruption.  The island has no town center and everyone is living and operating out of temporary structures (envision shipping containers on concrete blocks) that line the three mile stretch of road between Little Bay and Salem.   

After anchoring in Little Bay, we enjoyed lunch out.  The mile walk back burned off the delicious "mutton" that I had.  Mutton as it turns out is what is served when the cook doesn't know if they are cooking lamb or goat.  Ironically, all we saw on the island were lamb, goats, and ONE LIVE COW.  So, if I think they should be able to identify goat from lamb unless Bessie stops mooing.  Nonetheless - it was quite tasty and I didn't have to wash up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We both wanted to see the active volcano of course.  We hired a recommended guide from our cruising guide book.  Joe drove us around the island after a 15 minute lecture about our being 7 minutes late.  We were actually 10 minutes early - however were sitting in the wrong spot.  Joe then gave us a 5 hour tour of the island during which time he said no fewer than 100 times how his tour, which included photos, was so much better than the other offered tours.  I am still confused if he was telling us this to reinforce his high cost (400 EC or aproximately $150 US), build his ego with a captive audience, or cover the awkward pauses when Shawn and I had nothing to say.  The tour covered a lot of houses that were buried in mud, bridges that were covered (in mud), and finally a hotel with a pool that was filled (with mud/ash).  We did get some nice views of the volcano, watch as sand was being processed for export (apparently a tour highlight), and see the other cow on the island (it was dead and by the smell of things-had been for quite some time.)  On a fascinating side, Montserrat has invested in a steam electricity plant that uses the heat from the volcano to heat water (from a spring) which can turn a turbine to generate electricity.  Unfortunately, they have only built the steam tube-and never connected a turbine.  A massive amount of steam and free energy (probably enough to power the entire island) billows into the sky.

Although Paul McCartney did a bit of recording on Montserrat before the explosion, we felt the need to no longer look like we belonged in the Beetles band - translation, we needed haircuts.  We hired a cab to find a barber - and find a barber we did.   This same barber we did scare!  The exact quote to Shawn - "I have never seen hair so fine and blonde."  Words that always inspire confidence in the consumer.  We both received haircuts (that were great in the end) entirely provided with clippers and a significant amount of conversation that neither of us understood.  How i wish we had the woman from the movie "Airplane" that speaks Jive to translate for us.  

And the best part of Montserrat - the flies.  Somehow while at anchor we were able to fill the boat with flies!  Fortunately this happened once previously in the Med and we were now prepared - thanks to our friends Sue and Benita that joined us shortly after the Mediterranean experience with fly paper - once readily available and now only available in ACE hardware (probably left over inventory from the 70's).  

All that said above - we enjoyed Montserrat.  The people of the Caribbean continue to be very friendly.  Going out of the way to this island allowed for more "real" interactions with the locals.  The people are struggling to find a new identity with half their island inaccessible - and are getting there.  Little harbor is in a state of transition and a new wharf is being built to reduce the surf action in the bay and create a new town center.  There continues to be a fear that the volcano will erupt again - which explains the fear people have of rebuilding the south half of their island.  That said - there were some beautiful homes available (likely on the cheap) including that previously occupied by Jimmy Buffet - with a clear of the Soufriere Hills Volcano.  And thanks to brisk winds, we were given a great sail to Guadeloupe at the conclusion of which we opened all the hatches and blew out the remaining flies.